Emi & Steve |
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January 16 2001 OSAKA, JAPAN In the last 2 weeks since New Year our journey and life has taken a sudden turn. We were preparing ourselves for India but now find ourselves in Japan! Emi is not well and needs an operation that is serious enough to have to stop our journey for several months. On New Years Eve we went to the small hospital in Abbottabad. After the visit there we decided to go to a larger hospital in Islamabad. The ride there was life threatening in itself. They have used cars directly imported from Japan with the only modification of a louder horn that they use to scare everyone away from in front of them as they wildly drive at high speed. Try to imagine the view at high speed dodging trucks, other vehicles and cyclists being run off the road before your eyes. After a few more visits to the doctor in Islamabad in which our friend Rohail from Abbottabad accompanied us, we decided it was best that we return to Japan. Within 10 hours of making the decision we were on a plane to Tokyo. (We don't recommend Pakistan airlines.) At the Check In counter when we were to be charged excess baggage, the woman in that section got us off without paying. We would like to say a Big Thank You to our friends here (particularly members of JACC) and in Pakistan that have been by our side. Emi will be operated on this Friday the 19th of January. December 28 2000 ABBOTTABAD, PAKISTAN When we left Gilgit, leaving our friends behind, we felt we were again alone in the world. We had heard bad stories about some of the lawlessness along the Karakoram Highway to the south and indeed it was a hard part of our journey. In Dassu we were held up for 3 days by a landslide that had cut off the road. Dassu is a rough place to be held up in, with many people walking around with guns. We had good fortune though, with an introduction to the Chief of Police there. He put us up in a hotel and visited us everyday. Everywhere he went he had an armed guard with him and he conspicuously carried a pistol with a belt of ammunition. We were given a police escort through town when we left. Around Dassu the road clung to the steep mountainsides with the Indus River far below. Children threw stones at us. We saw an old man being tormented by a teenager throwing stones at him. So it wasn't just the foreigners that were the target. Further down the road between Besham and Battagram we had some of the worst experiences with people for our 11 years of travel. We had people jeering at us as well as throwing stones. I was hit in the back of my head, at close range by a rock. Luckily I had my helmet on, which was smashed by the impact instead of my head. The only excuse other people gave for these types was that they were uneducated people. But Pakistan is an extreme place, with the hospitality outstanding too. We are now staying with a Christian family here that invited us for Christmas. We not only had Christmas with them but had Ede (the end of Ramadan celebrations) with their close friends who are Muslims. On the night that the month of fasting ended, people were firing guns into the air in place of having fireworks. We were up on the roof of the house firing guns with them.
December 1st 2000 GILGIT, PAKISTAN Here we sit surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world. The winter is fast approaching and our cold legs wish to be moving to warmer climes. But we can't move so easily. It's too nice here. Our friends here invite us to break fast each evening since right now is the Islamic Holy month of Ramadan and the people are fasting during the daylight hours. Since we came down from the Khunjerab Pass we have been in a wonderland of ancient cultivated valleys towered over by glaciated peaks. The people here are extremely friendly; not what some would expect from a country with a military government and virtually at war with their neighbouring country, India. Also there are plenty of inexpensive hotels with good food. Coming from Kashgar, it took us 8 days to reach the 4730 metre high Khunjerab Pass on the border of China and Pakistan. The road climbed through narrow gorges and along high wide valleys. Some days the head winds almost blew us from our bikes. It has been one of the most beautiful and challenging rides of our journey. We met only a few other cyclists on the way since it was late in the season and therefore very cold. In the summer this route (The Karakoram Highway) is extremely popular with cyclists. We didn't encounter ice and snow as we had expected. It is a desert region and the snows come later. On the Pakistan side the road is a wonder because the steep sided mountains are constantly challenging the road's existence with regular landslides. We narrowly escaped being hit by rocks at a slide that had recently cut off the traffic. It was a cold steep 85km decent to the first town, Sost. When we arrived we could only see men in the streets. It was a wonder and I imagined that Pakistan has not only been able to create an atomic bomb but also they were able to reproduce without the use of women! Outside that first village was a different story though. We saw plenty of women going about the villages. At first they were mostly unveiled but the further south we get the more they cover their faces because their Islamic faith tells them to. We stopped in Karimabad and found it so peaceful that we found it hard to leave. We needed the break after racing across China (1900km in 4 weeks including two mountain ranges crossed). Most the travellers there seemed to need a break. Some of them were coming from China and others from travelling in India. The people have been friendly along the whole route but we wonder how the children will be in the future. Already some tourists have been handing out pens to the children and the greeting now in some villages is "one pen". In some villages we have had children chasing us, begging for pens. This isn't so cute when you are battling up another steep hill or have had it several times already that day! There are better ways to help the children if that is what you want to do. After a hilly ride gradually descending we take another break here in the busy trading town of Gilgit. The street is chaotic with cars, pedestrians, bicycles, men pushing carts and cows wandering about, all trying not to hit each other. Because of the hunger people have due to fasting for Ramadan, by 3PM it gets a bit crazier on the streets. The motor traffic races through with horns blasting away, the cows eat the rubbish, bearded men sit in the shops waiting for the next customer. It's rare to see women. October 18th KASHGAR, XINJIAN, WESTERN CHINA
At the bottom of the mountains on the southern side is the Taklimakan
desert. The road skirted around the base of the mountains on the edge
of the grey gravel desert. The horizon was constantly hazy with the
fine dust in the air. The water flowing from the mountains just disappears
into the sands. Villages and towns rely on ancient irrigation channels
to grow crops. .................. ................. September 19th 2000 ALMATY, KAZAKSTAN After two weeks here we have noticed the trees are now changing colour and daily there are more leaves on the ground. Friends told us that winter could come suddenly here. One October 1st it had been 25 degrees by day and then by that evening, down to -5 degrees. Our plans have now changed. It is too late for us to go to Siberia since it would take us at least 3 months to cross from here until Mongolia and then to China. We are now planing to cycle to China then over the Himalayas to Pakistan. There are also time limits for that too. The pass into Pakistan closes in November. We have made good friends here and it is hard to leave. Last weekend we went to our friend's dacha (simple country cottage). In the ex-Soviet Union as well as Europe to have a plot of land with a simple building on it was for those living in apartment blocks to grow their own food and also to relax. This dacha wasn't far up from the city centre only 5kms but so close to the mountains you felt like you reach out and touch them. Our visit to the dacha included eating a lot of food and drinking many toasts of vodka. As a guest you are compelled to eat a lot and to drink. Since not everyone enjoys vodka you have to learn of few ways to politely avoid drinking too much, if any at all. Being hungry cyclists we don't have too many problems eating. The dacha is in an area the Soviet government gave to artists and writers. Our friend Karim is the grandson of a famous Kazak writer. The family even has their own museum and recently their grandfather was commemorated on a coin. In the weeks that we have been here I have spent some hours catching up with this web page and e-mails. Emi has been writing more articles for the magazine in Japan. Both Emi and I would like to thank Sonia Heaven and her fellow staff for letting us loose on their computers at the BG Chair of Environmental Technology. Take note since it isn't always possible for us to update our web page there maybe some news on our messageboard. For some current photos taken by Emi see: http://www.nature-n.com/eye/index-e.htm September 1st 2000 ALMATY, KAZAKSTAN After 5 months, 8585km, 4 tires and numerous punctures we have arrived into (almost) the geographical centre of the world. We arrive exhausted and looking forward to a rest. This is a beautiful city with tree lined streets, old Soviet architecture and all, with the backdrop of high snow peaked mountains. On the other side to the north is the desert like Steppe. About 300km east is the border of China and much less distance away on the mountains behind is the border of Kyrgyzstan.
August 26th 2000 TARAZ (Zhambul), KAZAKSTAN We are now in one of the old Silk Road towns. We have seen few visual reminders of its history except for a few mausoleums dating back several centuries. Another reminder of the history here was when we passed the remains of an old trading town that had flourished during the years that Marco Polo passed by this way. The high mud walls were slowly wearing down. In Taraz the buildings are mostly Russian or the typical Soviet Grey 5 story apartment blocks. If the built the apartments higher than 5 floors they would then put in a lift. Therefore it is often a difficult haul to bring our bikes up the stairs to our friends apartments. The Silk Road is now a road of tar and a trail of cafes that serve tea and bread as well as a limited selection of hot food. We also managed to get some horse or camel milk. Both taste a little sour especially the horse milk. The horse milk can also be fermented into a type of alcohol. August 8th 2000 ARAL, KAZAKSTAN As we entered this hot dry dusty town we had the feeling we wouldn't leave without an interesting experience. We have come to see the fishing boats sitting on the bed of the dry Aral Sea. Here is a huge environmental disaster engineered by the Soviets when they created large irrigation projects to grow cotton. The sea is shrinking. All the native fish have died and many people are suffering from not only lack of livelihood but from the drastic environmental changes that are causing a lot of health problems. We met with people in a Danish Non Governmental Organisation helping the fishermen around the sea to catch the remaining species of bottom dwelling fish that had been introduced from the Caspian sea. This type of fish needs to be caught using different nets and techniques. That's where the Danish come in, with new types of nets and training. For further information see The Danish Society For A Living Sea : www.levende-hav.dk
ATYRAU to ARAL It was a difficult ride across the desert Steppe from Atyrau to Aral. The temperatures soared into the 40's and shade was hard to find and we both had bouts of diarrhoea. To top it off we had a bad run of punctures. At night if we were lucky we would find a cemetery to camp in therefore guaranteeing a night without being disturbed, by the living at least. Otherwise we would find any sort of trail that could get us at least 1,501 meters from the road so that people passing couldn't notice us. One night we were surrounded by camels of the two humped variety. There was some magic in sitting there watching the camels silhouetted against the setting sun. Although they were curious to who we were, they didn't think much of our bikes. To add to the adventure, we took a short cut recommended to us by a local man. He assured us it wasn't sandy and it was only 50km max. It was neither of the both. We spent two days in "no camels land" without sight of another human. Halfway across we were down to 2 litres of water each and with temperatures over 40 degrees we were concerned of our survival. After an afternoon spent resting from the burning sun in an abandoned hut that was ready to collapse at any moment, we headed out to the cool evening air and found a 20 metre deep well only 200 metres from where we'd spent the day. Using every piece of string and bungy cord we had, we managed to reach the life saving cold water below. It was salty and tasted like a cocktail of death. We wondered what dead things were floating in the deep well. There were skeletons of dead animals around the well. Our Katadyn water filter was a lifesaver although it doesn't filter salt or the bad taste.
July 17th 2000 ATYRAU, KAZAKSTAN Here is the so-called oil capital of Kazakstan. Already on the way here we saw hundreds of well heads with their electric pumps nodding their heads in unison. A Texan traveller said it reminded him of home. Kazakstan is a potentially rich country with vast amounts of oil and minerals. Being landlocked is the main problem since they have to pay to transport their wealth across neibouring countries. Down the centre of Atyrau is an insignificant looking river by the name of Ural. The Ural River is the official border between Europe and Asia. For us Asia started back in Kalmekiya, Russia. Already Asian faces and Muslim cemeteries are the norm. The Russians have left their mark here with their grey buildings and rows of apartment blocks. 100 years before, most Kazaks were nomads tending their camels, horses and other livestock while living in yurts. Now the only yurts are used as temporary homes or for cafes'. Horses and twin humped camels still roam the steppe. We never cease to enjoy seeing the Asian camels roaming about. They look like they are smiling at us, or maybe laughing. July 7th 2000 ELISTA, REPUBLIC OF KALMEKIYA, RUSSIA For over 2000kms since crossing the border into Ukraine we have been cycling over the Steppes that spread from there to Mongolia. But the true impact has been hidden under intensive farming, trees, towns and cities. Without being aware of the road ahead and on reaching the top of a short rise we were surprised when suddenly the land burst open before us. There was fenceless, treeless land as far as our eyes could see. There were no more crops being grown and instead there was a grassy plain with herds of horses running free. Little did we know it at the time but we have entered into one of many small Republics inside Russia. Chechnya one of the currently infamous Republics is only 100km south of us. Up until this place notably the population has been Europeans. But now we are in a land of about 300,000 people that are the descendants of a tribe of nomadic Mongols that had settled here with permission of Russian 400 years ago. They have mostly forgotten their language but some are trying to cling onto it. Since Perestroyka many have returned to their original religion Tibetan Buddhism. There are new Buddhist temples and other Asian architecture that gives the feeling we have left Europe. June 30th 2000 ROSTOV, RUSSIA We are staying with a Russian family with two daughters 15 and 20 years old that speak English. With the language barriers down we found we had a lot in common particularly as far as sense of humour. Still some Russian jokes elude us. Their father had once been the local communist part leader. On the subject of corruption we were told, in Russia it is a way of life. He now runs a farming collective that grows sunflowers to produce oil. As in the Soviet times when there was little variety available to buy in the shops, the garden is still mostly used for growing food, which is then bottled and stored in the cellar for winter. The winters here are harsh down to -40 degrees. Around at their grandparents simple wooden house where they had lived most their lives, they have a huge garden and a menagerie of animals. One animal we had never heard of before. It looks like a cross between a beaver and huge water rat. They are bred for their meat and fur. It took 20 animals to make a fur coat for his granddaughter. Out by the shed grandma and grandpa posed for a photo. An old picture of Lenin was pinned to the wall behind them. Despite the changes in politics here Lenin's statues and monuments still remain, where as Stalin has been removed in disgrace. June 19 2000 ODESSA, UKRAINE It has been a marathon ride over 400km of long rolling hills since our last ? day break. This is a crumbling "wedding cake building" city. The streets are full of huge potholes but the charm still remains in this city that was once one of the great seaside resorts of the Soviet Union. On the famous steps leading down to the port older men sell ancient postcards that show fading colour images of buildings and various monuments found around town. Also a popular item is old Soviet memorabilia, like war medals and coins. As in the Soviet times when not everyone could afford a camera, there are professional photographers on hand if you want a photo of yourselves on the steps or next to a man dressed as a pirate or in some other fancy dress. For the young boys there are large toy cars to be photographed in. There is a square full of artists selling their work. We are supposed to be visiting a friend of a friend here but when we arrived at the apartment we found that the friend has moved. A party was about to begin, we were invited and we have now stayed for 3 nights with our new friends. June 14th 2000 VINNICIA, UKRAINE After many days on the move over rough melting tar roads we have come to another large town. Along the way Emi crossed the 100,000km mark on her journey by bicycle. We need to stock up with extra food since in between the larger towns decent shops are few and far between. By the roadside there are people selling fruits in season (at the moment cherries) from their own yards that they are proud to show to the foreign guests. Just sometimes though you get more than you bargain for, with the cherries in this case, full of unwelcome guests. There are no supermarkets here and the big shops are a collection of different counters selling different things. Sometimes the system is that you line up along the counter to order what you want then go to the central cashier to pay, then return to the line with your receipt to pick up your order. To get through this town it was the usual guessing game since there aren't any signs to guide through to the other side. We have met a local man, Ivanov, who runs a canoe club here for local youth. His apartment is on the 7th floor of a typical grey Soviet built building. Around the cluster of buildings, above ground, are huge pipes to carry hot water for heating as well as washing. For a reason we've yet to understand the gas pipes are also always above ground too. It gives the residential areas an industrial look. The apartment blocks are government owned but most the tenants (most unemployed) have refused to pay the high costs of rent, electricity, water and gas. Therefore each day there are several hours in which there is no water or electricity. There is rarely hot water even in the winter when temperatures can be as low as -40 degrees. In the warm evening air children play and older men played chess, draughts, or dominoes under the trees around the buildings.
June 8th 2000 NORTHERN ROMANIA We have just passed some of the most beautiful mountains and forests we've seen in Europe. The long climbs were worth it. One afternoon there was a storm and we took shelter in a restaurant by a stream. While looking out at the pouring rain we saw a wave of floodwater rushing down the creek. A huge pile of rubbish was floating on top. For us this was a show of how the Romanians take care of their beautiful country. We were disappointed by seeing rubbish thrown everywhere all over the country. If there were any rubbish bins at rest areas they were vandalised or over flowing with rubbish strewn all around. Here in the north are some Prague, Czech Republic beautiful very old monasteries. They are particularly interesting because of the paintings on the exteriors showing biblical stories. They seem to be a little known attraction. It has been hard to be moving quickly across Romania since we have had such good hospitality. There we had so many invitations to stay. May 27 2000 Budapest, Hungary We are now in the the city of Budapest. This place is amazing. It is larger than Prague but therefore more work to see everything. Tonight we stay in a hostel full of Americans here to see the sights and to party! They are all headed off to the Turkish Baths tonight and now we look after the hostel for a few hours. Since Malacky in Slovakia we have cycled 280km. The bike route along the Danube on the Hungarian side has been fairly non-existant. We rode on some busy roads for a good part of the way. In Slovakia it was a good path though. There are plenty of castles to look at here as well as some very interesting Roman ruins. This was the last outpost of the Roman empire. Thus the beginings of the hot spring use in this country. The Russians in their search for oil created more springs. Now there are about 40 all over the country. Tomorrow we set off towards the Romanian border. We hope to be there in Romania in a few days. Our visa for the Ukraine begins next week and it is not extendable.
15 April 2000 BERLIN, GERMANY Here we are 780 kilometres into our route to Asia. Our legs are already tired! Our loaded bikes look ridiculous with so many things on board so that we are prepared for just about anything ahead. Already we have had 3 punctures and a tyre has been replaced. When servicing our stove a piece broke off. It still works though. The first days of cycling were an experience of Murphy`s law whereas after some fine weather before we put our behinds to saddle, on that foolish day of April 1 when we finally did set off, it did rain and in the days following, it did snow. There were miserable days when the the snow was flying horizontaly across the hillly English landscape. We took refuge as much as we could in local cafes. In the cafe of Kimbolton we were treated to a fine time by the owner Mr Ching. This helped our dampened spirits enormously. After a very welcome days rest with some friends near to Harwich we caught the overnight ferry to Hamburg as planned. The weather has since improved. The land less hilly, roads quieter. Since our last visit to Berlin it has changed with a frenzy of rebuilding. The Eastern part of Germany is still being rebuilt with some roads still in poor condition. Since our last visit here a lot of work has been done on the infrastructure and is improving all the time. Here in Berlin we pick up more Visas for the months ahead. We soon continue in the direction of The Czech Republic. Emi & Steve S......... Home ; The
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